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Saturday, 28 February 2009

The Tyrant Dominates

Paul put the idea of heading to Murdoch head earlier in the week. Iooking at the guide book, it sounds like the perfect crag, steep compact granite. Though it is birded through the summer the winter storms should have cleared any mess left behind. After some exploration we decided to see what the routes on the round tower were like. The tower below.

A short abseil down a crumbly dirty corner didn't inspire us much but luckily good rock was found around on the south wall. Paul descending below.

John and I climbed the steep wall of high voltage HVS 5a*. this route would get more stars, the climbing is a little scrappy low down but with a steep head wall high up and a tricky top out it has plenty of character. John on the crux below.

Paul wasted no time getting suck in to a fine steep hanging arete called The Life of Brian E1**. Paul led this in good style with a few whoops on the crux moves. Below Paul near the top.

Chris not being the sort of man to turn down a good climb quickly followed Paul and was clearly happy at the big moves required in the exposed position. Chris in the final corner below.

Tyrant crack E2 5c*** , is the classic of the crag on the tower. Paul was keen, keener than me!, to test his E2 ability and fancied giving it a pop. The crack climbs the center of the the South face below.
Steep crack climbing was on the menu and the route was giving up more resistance that it would appear.
Paul found the crack too much thus wisely backed off, putting it down to his crack climbing ability. It was a good effort though.

After this we had a good look at the warlord cliff. But on closer inspection there appeared to be very little in the way off good protection for belays. So we called it a day and headed home. It was another day of nothing ventured nothing gained.

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