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Monday, 29 October 2012

Fast and Furious

Newtyle is a chossy slate quarry near Dunkeld which was developed for drytooling by Scott Muir. The climbing there is 'unscottish' because many holds are drilled and it is bolted and most definately not in winter condition. However it became fast and furiously the training ground for many of the leading Scottish winter climbers. Andy Turner, Dave MacLeod and Greg Boswell have all drytooled here which enabled these climbers to become strong and to learn to hook precisely. It is the major hard winter climbing training venue in Scotland. More recently other training tools training tools for indoor climbing such as FigFours became available although surprisingly they are not allowed everywhere even when toproping and using a spring leash.

The gradings are D grades to indicate drytooling followed by a number for the difficulty analogous to the bolted mixed climbing M grades. A landmark route is 'fast and furious' which was first climbed by Scott Muir and has been given D10 (the highest current grade is D13). Here is a very nearly successful attempt:
Fast and furious from Henning Wackerhage on Vimeo.
Sorry for the amateurish soundtrack and a note to all the Aberdonians: the ice axes were later retrieved.
More information on Newtyle::

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