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Monday, 7 September 2015

Ardverikie wall HS ****

After last week's sea kayaking Giulio was keen on some scrambling and he said he would bring his colleague Chris. As both had climbed and as the weather was good we initially decided to go to Glen Coe. However, low clouds were forecast for coastal areas so we decided to try Ardverikie wall which is one of the great Scottish classic climbs and justifiably so. The first ascent was made by the Dundee team of DF Lang and GN Hunter in June 1967 and I had climbed it twice before, so a good introduction.

Our prediction was right and it was sunny during the walk in...
 ...past Lochan na h-Earba ...
 ... to reach the Southern side of Beinn Shuas where a large band of microgranite rises uninterrupted for 200 or so metres. 
 At least 5 times were climbing the route...
 ... so we had to join the queue but queueing in the sunshine and having an early lunch is very different from queuing for a winter route in a gale. 
 The route climbs up a rib followed by a run out second pitch which is commonly climbed together with the first one. After that crack systems before a rightwards traverse ends the climb proper. Some scrambling follows to near the summit of Beinn Shuas. In the photo below the blue climber has reached the belay after the bold but easy bit. The crack/flake is to the right of him and the lower red climber is just below. After that the crux which is to traverse rightwards before following a groove.
 Here I am waiting for the traffic to clear before tackling the 15 m run out to the belay...
 ... and here I start the crack/flake.
 Here are Chris and Gilio on the crux pitch...
 ... and here they have reached the belay at the top of the pitch. 
 Here is Giulio finishing the main part of the route before the final scramble to the top. 
A grand day out, my first mountain route this year after a shoulder luxation and a chest infection.

1 comment:

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As both had climbed and as the weather was good.