Meikle Partan is the favourite of many low and mid-grade Aberdeen-based climbers since it offers climbing on perfect pink granite. Next to it is the larger Fulmar Wall with longer routes on almost as good granite in place. Yesterday Graham and I went and we started with a ***HS, The Weight.
Poor protection at the black bulge at the start but it soon turns into a jugfest in an exposed position. We then went over to Meikle Partans and climbed a couple of VSs and one of the best E1's on the Aberden coast, 'Strawclutchers wall'. Here I am having done the first section to reach the big flake.
After that the crux: a crimpy move to another break. Today I did poorly and the sling around the flake nearly came off. After that another reachy but easier move to reach the juggy finish. Here I am nearly there. In the background Slains Castle, which is believed to be the inspiration for the gothic Dracula novel by Bram Stoker.
Graham seconded it well and he should be able to lead it soon.
After that a few shots of the sea and pink sky tonight.
HW
Wednesday, 1 June 2011
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1 comment:
why didn't you use a wire and cam behind the flake ??
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